What first drew you to workingwith whisky?
I used to love drinking in university, particularly beer, wine and whisky. My professor told me he could introduce me to someone at Suntory, and so, I went straight there after graduating in 1984. I was working in production at the Hakushu distillery for eight years, and moved to the Yamazaki distillery in 1992, where I took chargeof blending.
What are the elements that go into creating the perfect whisky?
Your nose and palate are your main tools, so to make a good blend, you need specifics – concept, price, target range. You think about whether you want it to be fruity, spicy, smoky, heavy or light. We also account for competitors in the same segment – their quality and characteristics. Then, create test blends, communicating with consumers and changing the recipe as we go along. It often comes down to instinct.
What are the most interesting palate differences between a Japanese and a Scottish whisky?
Japanese whisky production was inspired by the Scottish industry, so the process is similar, but the nature is different. Scottish water is brownish, with many compounds. Japanese water, however, is pure and soft. Climate also matters – Scotland has dry, cool summers and damp, cold winters, but Japan has hot, humid summers and dry winters. These differences accelerate maturation in some whiskies.
How has whisky culture changed in Japan over the years?
Post 1983, whisky sales dropped steadilyfor 25 years, while the sale of beer, wine and other domestic spirits increased. But, about ten years ago, we pushed the highball campaign, which improved whisky sales in the Japanese market. The highball is whisky in a beer mug with soda, lemon and a chunk of ice. It’s a quintessentially Japanese drink that tastes very natural, with a similar sophistication to our tea ceremonies.
Do you believe the highball is the definitive way to drink whisky?
If I’m drinking a super-premium whisky, like the Yamazaki 18, I just add a little water. But I prefer the highball for drinking socially. It’s a healthy and stylish way to drink it that works well when you’re with family and friends.
What are the best ways to drink Yamazaki and Hibiki respectively?
I would recommend drinking Yamazaki straight – its creamy, satisfying palate is best enjoyed that way. Hibiki could be mixed with some water to bring out the multiple layers – it’s a more floral, fruity blend.
Tell us about the aging process of Yamazaki and the layers that go into blending Hibiki?
Yamazaki is aged in sherry casks madeof Spanish oak, and mizunara casks made of Japanese oak that gives it that cherry Mizunarak nose. For Hibiki, we blend 13 malts, usually in the ratio of seven (Yamazaki), three (Hakushu) and three (Chita). We sometimes vary the ratiobasis our stock, but ensure the quality is always consistent.
What made Beam Suntory India bring The House of Suntory portfolio to India in 2020, after all this time?
Our supply ten years ago wasn’t enough to match the world’s demand, and the Indian whisky market is huge – and still growing. I feel it will particularly respond to Yamazaki and Hibiki now. We’ve also blended a third, especially for India, Oaksmith, which launched in Maharashtra in December last year.
We hear you localised research for Oaksmith as much as possible. What did that entail?
I went into liquor shops, spoke to the owners about the brands and palates customers prefer, and how they tend to drink it. Diluted was the answer, with water or soda – most prefer to drink a lot without a hangover the next day. Purity and authenticity seemed key. I was also told whisky is often paired with spicy food here, so we let those things reflect in the recipe. Oaksmith itself pairs brilliantly with a chicken tikka or Hyderabadi biryani.
